Landscape Fabric and Edging

Most landscape fabric failures trace back to one mistake: the wrong fabric in the wrong spot. Landscape fabric, used correctly, limits weed growth and keeps garden beds looking pristine — it stifles weeds, locks in moisture, and helps with stability. But its use is not without controversy. The fix is matching fabric type and weight to the application, then backing it with edging that survives freeze-thaw. Get those two right and you’ve got a border that holds its line for years.

Here’s the honest part most packaging won’t tell you: fabric belongs in non-growing zones. For most planting beds, mulch alone is the better choice. Common mistakes include installing fabric in plant-heavy beds, which restricts root spread and soil regeneration, and assuming fabric is permanent when it degrades and creates more work later. Save the fabric for paths, gravel, and under hardscape. That’s where it earns its keep.

Fabric Types and How to Choose

Four types cover almost everything. Each one’s built for a different job.

Woven is the workhorse. Woven landscaping fabric is the most commonly used type, typically made from polypropylene or linen fibers woven together to create a durable, semi-permeable material. Its small holes allow both water and nutrients to seep through to the earth while still preventing weeds from growing toward the sun. It’s best used as weed control fabric around trees and shrubs or in flower beds with plants that won’t be changed often. Woven fabrics are usually black, green, or a brown, natural burlap color.

Non-woven goes under the rock. These fabrics offer great stability and prevent stones from sinking into soil. Professional grade versions are often used beneath stone pavers or other large-scale hardscaping. The trade-off: non-woven, felt-like fabric is less permeable, making it ideal for plant beds and gravel paths where you don’t need much water exchange below.

Spun is the heavy hitter. This version of non-woven fabric is made from layers of bonded polyester fibers that make it extremely durable. It’s the most heavy-duty type of landscaping fabric and very difficult to rip or tear. The thickness varies widely, making it viable for many different uses. Thicker spun fabrics are so tough and impermeable they can be used in irrigation, drainage, and retaining wall applications to ward off roots and prevent seepage.

Perforated is for the veggie patch. Don’t use it under permanent beds — frequent replanting gets difficult. Where it shines: perforated landscape fabrics are cheap, lightweight, and designed with pre-cut holes for plants, commonly used where plants are evenly placed and changed often, like vegetable gardens. Because they’re so lightweight, they shouldn’t be used in areas with heavy foot traffic, lots of animal activity, or sizable roots.

Choosing fabric weight by application

Application	Weight
Garden beds and paths	3–4 oz
Heavy traffic	6 oz
Driveways	8 oz or more

Two more things to check before buying. Exposure to sunlight degrades some fabrics rapidly, so choose UV-resistant materials made for outdoor use. And quality matters for the long haul — landscape fabric can last anywhere from 5 to 20 years depending on quality and conditions. High-quality fabrics tend to be more durable, while cheaper options degrade more quickly. The thin, see-through stuff is false economy.

Western Building Center carries DeWitt Pointbond polypropylene weed barrier in a 4-foot by 100-foot roll rated for 15 years, a 3-foot by 50-foot poly 15-year fabric, and landscape fabric pins by the count. When you’ve got multiple pieces to join, round up on fabric width to minimize seams and avoid future weed growth.

Edging: Material Trade-Offs

Edging does real work. It separates materials so mulch stays put, gravel doesn’t wander, and turf doesn’t creep into planting beds. It also creates a smoother mowing edge, protects irrigation lines and plant roots from string trimmers, and can help guide surface water.

The pick comes down to appearance, durability, ease, and cost:

• Plastic (HDPE): Economical, durable, and easy to work with — the go-to material for both homeowners and landscapers. Good for flowing curves.
• Steel and aluminum: Thin, strong, and discreet. Great for formal lines and tight curves. Steel is very durable; aluminum won’t rust.
• Wood: This one needs a Montana warning. Even treated lumber isn’t exceptionally weather-resistant and is prone to warping, splitting, and cracking. If you go wood, use rot-resistant species or treated lumber, and it’s best for raised beds and rustic borders. Steel or concrete is the smarter long-term call in this climate.
• Concrete: Moderately expensive but very durable, often shaped into flat bricks. Useful as a mow strip because it eliminates the need for trimming.
• Stone and pavers: Very attractive and moderately expensive, highly versatile, but they often require significant labor for proper installation.

For mulch retention specifically, edging around trees, shrubs, or flower beds frequently extends 2 inches above ground level and 4 inches below.

Installation That Survives Winter

Skip the prep and the whole thing fails. Start clean: remove all existing weeds, grass, rocks, debris, and old mulch, digging out stubborn roots. Then rake the soil smooth and level it out as evenly as possible.

Laying fabric is straightforward, but the details decide whether weeds find a way through. Any time you’re using multiple pieces, overlap by one foot so weeds can’t squeeze through the gaps. Pin it down tight — pin the fabric at every edge, every foot. And when you set plants, cut holes, not flaps or X’s. Those flaps can wedge against the rootball and keep roots from spreading, or hold moisture against a woody stem and cause rot. Then cover it: at least 3 inches of wood chip mulch, preferably more, because if light gets through you’ll get weeds.

For the base under edging, this is where Montana frost separates good installs from re-dos. For metal or composite edging, dig a trench roughly as deep as the edging plus 1–2 inches for base, keeping trench walls vertical and the bottom level. Then add 1–2 inches of compactible material — crushed rock or coarse sand — lightly moisten and tamp until firm. A stable base prevents frost heave and wavy lines. That tamped sub-base is not optional here. Skip it and heave pushes your line out of shape by spring.

Anchor it right: drive spikes at 24–36 inch intervals on straight runs and closer on curves, keeping the edging plumb and the top elevation consistent. For heavier material, dig deeper — excavate a 4–6 inch compacted base under pavers or stone if they’ll be walked or mowed on, then add a thin sand setting bed, tap stones level with a mallet, and sweep joint sand to lock in place. With wood, provide drainage behind boards so water doesn’t sit against the wood, and anchor with rebar or stakes at regular intervals.

Buy a little extra. Measure your planned border and add 10–15% for cuts, curves, and connectors. Remember spikes, base material, and joint sand if using pavers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I use landscape fabric or just mulch? For most planting beds, mulch alone wins. The real question isn’t just which is better, but whether you actually need both — or if one will do the job effectively. Fabric prevents nutrients created by decomposing organic materials from reaching the soil below, and it deters garden-friendly earthworms that aerate the soil. Reserve fabric for paths, gravel, under decks, and permanent hardscape. Use 2–4 inches of mulch as the primary weed control in beds.

Does landscape fabric stop all weeds? No, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling something. Landscape fabric doesn’t completely eliminate all weeds. Although it prevents weed seeds in the soil from growing, new weed seeds can blow into the mulch above the fabric and sprout there. You’ll still pull the occasional seedling off the top.

Should landscape fabric go under gravel? Yes — this is one of its best uses. Fabric works great as a barrier beneath hardscaping and prevents inorganic mulch like rocks and pea gravel from sinking into the soil. Non-woven types are built for exactly this, giving stones a stable base so they don’t disappear into the dirt.

Which side faces down? Fuzzy side goes against the soil so it can adhere to the soil surface. On steep slopes some installers flip it, but the weave is designed to let water flow downward through the fabric — it still works fuzzy side up, but not quite as effectively.

How do I keep edging from heaving out of line over winter? The base is everything. A hand tamper locks the base to prevent frost heave. Tamp 1–2 inches of crushed rock or coarse sand under the edging, set your spikes at proper intervals, and backfill in lifts. Backfill on both sides with native soil or base material, tamp in lifts to lock the edging in place, and check for level and straightness as you go.

Can I run fabric under my lawn? Don’t. Avoid covering walkways or lawn areas with landscape fabric unless specifically required; it can inhibit grass growth if placed under turf. Fabric belongs in beds and hardscape zones, not under grass you want to thrive.