Handsaw vs. Hacksaw

Two saws that look like cousins. They cut completely different things. Get this wrong at the counter and you’ll dull a good blade in thirty seconds.

Here’s the whole thing in one line: a handsaw is best for woodworking, while a hacksaw is essential for cutting metal and plastic. Pick based on the material in front of you, then match the teeth to the job. That’s the decision.

A handsaw is a single fixed blade attached straight to the handle. Wide, with bigger teeth. Hand saw blades are wider and primarily designed to cut through wood. The teeth are coarser with larger teeth and deeper gullets. A hacksaw is different animal — a C-shaped frame to hold removable blades. This allows for switching between different blades that can cut through different materials, although metal is the most common type. The frame tensions a thin, fine-toothed blade you swap out when it dulls.

Can you cross them over? In a pinch. In an emergency, you could cut wood with a hacksaw and soft metals such as aluminum with a handsaw. But overall, that is not the best use of either type of saw. And running a wood saw through metal is asking for trouble — the coarse teeth snag and dull right away.

Matching Teeth Per Inch to the Material

TPI is the spec that decides everything. Cut quality, speed, whether your blade survives. The two tools live in completely different TPI ranges.

Handsaws run coarse. A typical handsaw has a wide, permanently fixed blade. It has about 7-10 teeth per inch (TPI). The teeth of the blade are designed for cross-cutting or rip-cutting. More teeth means a finer, slower cut. More teeth result in a smoother cut but slower cutting speed. For example, an 8-TPI saw is coarser and better suited for rip cuts, while a 12-TPI saw provides a finer finish for crosscuts. For general wood work, general wood cutting typically requires about 4 TPI.

The grain direction tells you which handsaw. Some blades are designed for cutting along the grain, while others are designed for cutting across the grain. Rip saws follow the grain with bigger teeth. Crosscut saws sever across it with finer teeth.

Hacksaw blades pack in far more teeth, graded by what metal you’re cutting:

Material	TPI Range
Mild steel, copper, aluminum, brass	14–18
Cast iron, tool steel, high-carbon steel	20–24
Thin pipes, sheets, tubes	24–30
Exceptionally solid metals, thin sheet	30–32

Those grades come straight from the bench: a blade size of 14-18 teeth per inch is suitable for mild steel, copper, aluminum, and brass. Medium-grade blades cut 20–24 teeth per inch and are suitable for cast iron, tool steel, aluminum, brass, and high-carbon steel. Fine-grade blades cut 24–30 teeth per inch and are suitable for thin pipes, sheets, and tubes. Superfine-grade blades have 30–32 teeth per inch for exceptionally solid metals and thin metal sheets.

One rule keeps blades alive. The blade chosen is based on the thickness of the material being cut, with a minimum of three teeth in the material. Fewer than three teeth riding the cut and the blade catches on edges, then snaps.

Picking the Right Saw for the Job

Handsaws come in a pile of specialized shapes. Western Building Center’s lineup covers the common ones — a standard 20-inch 8-point handsaw, a 15-inch 9 TPI handsaw, and a Stanley 15-inch handsaw for general straight cuts in wood.

For angled trim and molding, you want a backsaw. A miter saw, also called a backsaw, pairs with a miter box to make precise angled cuts. This combination is ideal for cutting molding, trim, and other materials at specific angles. The reinforced spine keeps the blade dead straight.

Cutting outlet openings in drywall calls for a jab saw — the Stanley FatMax jab saw is built for exactly that. A jab saw features a sharp, pointed tip that allows you to easily pierce drywall and start cutting. Jab saws are particularly useful for creating openings for electrical outlets or other fixtures in drywall.

Detail and joinery work has its own tools. A Stanley coping saw handles the curves: a coping saw is designed for making intricate curved cuts in wood. It features a thin, flexible blade held in tension by a U-shaped frame. When using a coping saw, remember that it cuts on the pull stroke, not the push stroke. For fine cuts, a pull saw earns its keep — pull saws, also known as Japanese-style saws, cut on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. This design allows for more control and precision. And a flush-cut saw, like the Stanley 20-331, is designed for trimming protruding dowels, screws, or other fasteners flush with the surface of the material. The stock list also runs to an Irwin 10-inch dovetail saw, a Lenox close-quarter handsaw, folding pocket saws, and multipurpose 3-in-1 setups for the truck box.

On the hacksaw side, the carry includes an economy frame plus 12-inch bi-metal blades in both 18-tooth and 24-tooth — the two grades that cover most pipe, conduit, and bolt work.

Hacksaw Blades: Sizes and Steel

The replaceable blade is the hacksaw’s whole advantage. Know your sizes and you’ll keep one frame running for years.

Standard lengths are simple. Standard hacksaw blade lengths are 10 to 12 in (250 to 300 mm). Blades can be as small as 6 in (150 mm). The 12-inch is the workhorse — the most common blade is the 12 inch or 300 mm length. The 12 inch / 300 mm dimension refers to the center to center distance between these mounting holes. Junior and mini frames run the smaller 6-inch blades for tight quarters.

Blade steel has come a long way, and bi-metal won. The early carbon-steel blades were cheap but wore fast. ‘Low alloy’ blades are still the only type available for the Junior hacksaw, which limits the usefulness of this otherwise popular saw. High-speed steel improved tooth life. The modern answer combines both: since the 1980s, bi-metal blades have been used to give the advantages of both forms, without risk of breakage. A strip of high speed steel along the tooth edge is electron beam welded to a softer spine. As the price of these has dropped to be comparable with the older blades, their use is now almost universal. That’s why the stock blades are bi-metal — it’s the standard now.

Installing one is quick. Secure the blade with the teeth pointing forward. Tighten the nut until the blade is under tension. Keep blade rigid, and frame properly aligned. Frames adjust to fit different blade lengths, and the wing nut or quick-release does the tensioning.

Cutting Technique and Blade Care

These are manual tools. Technique is the difference between a clean cut and a broken blade.

The orientation rule splits the two tools. One of the biggest differences between hacksaws and handsaws is that hacksaws cut on the forward push only. The handsaw can cut forward and backward or push and pull stroke. So on a hacksaw, lean in on the push and ease off on the return.

Start every cut the same way. Clamp the work, mark the line, go slow. Check the stock being cut for nails, knots, and other objects that may damage or buckle saw. Start cut carefully and slowly to prevent blade from jumping. Then let the blade do the work — cut using steady strokes, directed away from you. Use entire length of blade in each cutting stroke.

Don’t force a hacksaw. Brittle blades break when you push. Do not apply too much pressure on the blade as the blade may break. Do not twist when applying pressure. Do not use when the blade becomes loose in the frame. A drop of oil helps, too — use light machine oil on the blade to keep it from overheating and breaking.

Maintenance is straightforward. Keep saw blades clean and lightly oiled. Protect the teeth when the saw’s stored. The big difference at end of life: a dull hacksaw blade gets tossed, but some high quality hand saw blades may actually be sharpened when worn out. And always wear eye protection — wear safety glasses or goggles, or a face shield.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which saw cuts metal — handsaw or hacksaw? The hacksaw. Hacksaws are primarily used to cut through metal, hard plastics, and similar materials. Fine, sharp teeth are perfect for making cuts into hard or dense materials. A handsaw is built for wood and will dull fast on steel.

Can a hacksaw cut PVC pipe and conduit? Yes — it’s a common use. Plumbers and electricians often cut plastic pipe and plastic conduit with them. The fine teeth give a clean cut on plastic.

What TPI should I use for cutting steel pipe? For thin-wall pipe and tubing, go fine — fine-grade blades cut 24–30 teeth per inch and are suitable for thin pipes, sheets, and tubes. Superfine-grade blades have 30–32 teeth per inch for thin metal sheets. Keep at least three teeth on the wall thickness.

Why does my hacksaw blade keep breaking? Usually too much pressure or a twist in the cut. Hacksaw blades are normally quite brittle, so care needs to be taken to prevent brittle fracture of the blade. Ease up, keep the frame square, and make sure the blade’s properly tensioned.

Which way do hacksaw teeth face? Forward, away from the handle, since the saw cuts on the push. When installing a blade, insert the blade holes into the spigots. Finally, ensure the teeth are pointed away from the handle.

Can hacksaw blades be sharpened? No. The blade is difficult to sharpen after dulling. The blade is typically replaced with a new one. That’s the trade-off for the replaceable design — you just drop in a fresh blade.

What saw do I use to cut drywall openings for outlets? A jab saw. The pointed tip pierces the board, and jab saws are particularly useful for creating openings for electrical outlets or other fixtures in drywall.