Punches and Chisels

The single biggest mistake on these tools isn’t buying the wrong brand. It’s grabbing the wrong type. The most common mistake mechanics make is grabbing a pin punch to break loose a pin when the proper tool to use would be a tapered punch. Use the wrong punch or chisel and you damage the tool, the workpiece, or both.

Punches and chisels are old. Next to striking tools they are likely the oldest tools in the history of humanity. The basic idea hasn’t changed: a punch is a tool used to indent or create a hole through a hard surface. They usually consist of a hard metal rod with a narrow tip at one end and a broad flat “butt” at the other. When used, the narrower end is pointed against a target surface and the broad end is struck with a hammer or mallet, causing the blunt force of the blow to be transmitted through the rod body and focused more sharply onto a small area. For anyone running a farm, ranch, or shop, these earn their drawer space. Although very simple in their construction, punches and chisels are highly versatile, which makes them indispensable in any tool collection on the farm or ranch.

Pick by task. That’s the whole game. Below is what each type does, how to choose for durability, and how to keep them safe to swing.

Punch Types and What Each One Does

Start with the big split. Hollow punches are designed to puncture a surface, such as sheet metal or leather in order to create a hole. Solid punches are one-piece rod-shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer. A hollow punch is easy to spot — it has an “exit hole” located near the working end, which allows the punched material to be removed and discarded. Most builders and mechanics live in the solid-punch world. Here’s how those break down.

Pin and taper punches — the pin-removal pair. This is where the wrong-tool damage happens most. Pin punches feature a long head the same diameter as the tip and are meant for removing tension or solid pins. Taper punches are designed for loosening and driving pins. The order matters. A common mistake is to use a pin punch to break loose a pin instead of a tapered punch, which is specifically designed to take the heavy pounding required to loosen pins. Using a pin punch to start the initial removal can result in damaging the punch and the pin, while also increasing the risk for personal injury. Rather, use a taper punch to start and then switch to the pin punch to complete the removal. The takeaway for your toolbox: it is highly recommended that people have a matching tapered punch for every pin punch. Sizing the pin punch matters too. The proper tip size for a specific application is smaller than the encasing hole, yet large enough to make solid contact with the piece being driven or removed.

Roll pin (pilot) punches — don’t substitute. Also known as roll pin punches, they are designed to drive or remove hollow tension pins, such as tapered and rolled or solid pins. They feature a similar long head like a pin punch with the difference being that they have a slight bump at the tip permitting insertion into a rolled pin. That center projection is the whole point. Standard pin punches should never be used on a roll pin. Because of the hollow, thin wall construction of a roll pin, a standard pin punch will often collapse, mar or distort the end of the pin or be driven into, and jammed inside, the hollow core. Size it right: select one no larger than the compressed diameter of the pin. If a punch larger than the pin is used, the surrounding metal in which the pin is seated can be damaged. A roll pin punch should also not be smaller than the compressed diameter — if it is, it may be possible to drive the punch through the hollow center. And when one gets chewed up, replace it. If the end of a roll pin punch is damaged or deformed, it should be discarded. It is virtually impossible to regrind the tip and properly shape the center projection.

Center punch — start every drill hole here. Center punches are used to make a mark on a material where a hole will be drilled. When struck, a small indentation is made in the work piece. Why bother? A drill has the tendency to “wander” if it does not start in a recess. A center punch forms a large enough dimple to “guide” the tip of the drill. The geometry: the tip of a center punch has an angle between 60 and 90 degrees.

Prick punch — layout work. Sharper tip, lighter duty. A prick punch is similar to a center punch but used for marking out. It has a sharper angled tip to produce a narrower and deeper indentation, which can then be enlarged with a center punch for drilling. A prick punch has a 40-degree tip (the angle depends on what type of prick punch one is using). It shines at transferring patterns — most people use this punch to transfer dimensions from a paper pattern to metal and then use them as a point of reference for cutting or fabricating. Keep it on soft stuff: it is designed for use on soft materials such as wood, plastics, and thin sheet metal.

Drift/aligning punch — never strike the tip. This one’s misnamed. A drift “punch” is not used as a punch in the traditional sense. A drift punch, or drift pin, or lineup punch, is used as an aid in aligning bolt or rivet holes prior to inserting a fastener. It is constructed as a tapered rod, with the hammer acting on the large end of the taper. The long end is placed into the semi-aligned bolt holes of two separate components and driven in. As it goes in, the taper forces the two components into alignment. The rule that protects the tool: unlike most punches, force is never (and should never be) applied to the tip, or end of a drift pin.

Transfer punch — copy a hole pattern. A transfer punch is a punch (usually in an index set) of a specific outer diameter that is non-tapered and extends the entire length of the punch except for the tip. It is used to tightly fit the tolerances of an existing hole and, when struck, precisely transfer the center of that hole to another surface. A transfer punch’s size is typically kept around 4 inches.

Chisel Types and Their Applications

Hand tool chisels can be classified into distinct types: wood, masonry, and metalworking. Similar to solid punches, metalworking chisels are one-piece rod-shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer, and they are primarily used to cut or shape metal.

The metalworking family:

Chisel	What it does
Cold (flat) chisel	The most popular metalworking chisel. Flat, wide tip with a cutting edge; the width of the tip gives the chisel its size. Common applications are cutting bolts, breaking chain, and removing burrs.
Rivet buster	Same as a flat chisel except the cutting edge is offset, not centered. The offset lets the chisel lay flat and slide under the rivet to be removed.
Diamond-point	Named for the diamond-shaped point. Designed to punch holes and make V-shaped grooves in sheet steel.
Cape	Narrower cutting edge than a flat chisel. Designed to square rounded corners in grooves or cut new grooves with square edges in steel.
Round nose	Similar to a cape chisel, but with a round edge on one side that lets it cut grooves with round bottoms.

One hard rule across all of them: be sure the object being cut or worked is NOT harder than the chisel itself. Otherwise, the chisel’s point will dull or be destroyed.

Wood, masonry, and specialty variants are separate animals. Product lines run from guarded concrete and masonry chisels to flooring and brick chisels in widths like 0.75-inch concrete, 1.75-inch masonry, 2-inch flooring, and 4-inch brick. Western Building Center’s chisel lineup covers both sides of that fence. On the metal side, Mayhew cold chisels run 5/16 x 4-inch, 1/4 x 4-1/2-inch, 3/4 x 7-inch, 7/8 x 7-1/2-inch, and a guarded 1 x 12-inch, plus a 3 x 12-inch floor chisel. On the wood side, there are FatMax bench chisels in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/2, and 2-inch widths and a 3-piece set, along with a hinge butt corner chisel. Start small and build out — start with a 1/2-inch chisel and expand your set based on project needs.

Steel, Temper, and Staying Safe

What separates a chisel that holds an edge from one that mushrooms into junk is the steel and the heat treat. The biggest factor that impacts the strength and durability of a punch or chisel is the steel used in its manufacturing. A punch or chisel made from premium tool steel and optimally tempered will deliver a tool with a working end that maintains its edge and shape longer and a striking end that is hard enough to be struck without chipping or cracking.

There’s a design detail worth knowing. Most punches and chisels are differentially tempered. That means the striking end is softer than the working end. When that soft end mushrooms, deal with it — when any punch or chisel mushrooms on the striking end, it must be dressed to prevent the mushrooming pieces from chipping off and causing harm.

Working around fuel or anything that sparks? Change materials. If you are working in or near sparking environments, consider punches and chisels made of brass, copper beryllium, or aluminum bronze.

Sharpen the right way. Use a hand file (not a grinder) to re-sharpen the chisel. Using a grinder could result in the chisel losing its temper. For bench chisels on wood, always use a wooden mallet to protect the handle.

A few safety basics that keep your hands attached:

• Always use a proper punch or chisel holder. Never use a pair of locking pliers, as they will create sharp indentations that can endanger a user’s hands when handling later on.
• Ensure the hammer used has a head diameter of no more than 3/8” larger than the head of the chisel or punch.
• Always wear safety goggles when working with punches and chisels.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why won’t a pin come loose with a pin punch? Because a pin punch isn’t built for breaking pins free — it’s built to finish the job. A common mistake is to use a pin punch to break loose a pin instead of a tapered punch, which is specifically designed to take the heavy pounding required to loosen pins. Start with the taper punch, then switch to the pin punch to complete the removal.

Can I use a regular pin punch on a roll pin? No. Standard pin punches should never be used on a roll pin. Because of the hollow, thin wall construction of a roll pin, a standard pin punch will often collapse, mar or distort the end of the pin or be driven into, and jammed inside, the hollow core. Use a roll pin punch, which has a small projection in the center of the tip to support the circumference of the roll pin.

What’s the difference between a center punch and a prick punch? Tip angle and job. The tip of a center punch has an angle between 60 and 90 degrees and makes the dimple that guides a drill bit. A prick punch is sharper — a prick punch has a 40-degree tip — and is used for marking out, producing a narrower, deeper indentation that can then be enlarged with a center punch for drilling.

Should I grind a dull chisel sharp? Skip the grinder. The best way to re-sharpen the chisel is to re-file the cutting edge using a hand file, not a grinder. Using a grinder could result in the chisel losing its temper.

What size chisel should a beginner buy first? Start with a 1/2-inch chisel and expand your set based on project needs.

Why does my chisel keep dulling on the first cut? You’re likely cutting something too hard for it. Be sure the object being cut or worked is NOT harder than the chisel itself. Otherwise, the chisel’s point will dull or be destroyed.

What punch removes a rusted, seized pin or bolt on equipment? Loosen first with a taper punch, then finish with a pin punch. For alignment during reassembly, taper punches are also ideal for aligning existing holes in two or more work pieces prior to bolting or riveting. A drift punch handles alignment too, but force is never applied to its tip.