Pump Accessories

Pump accessories get treated like afterthoughts. They’re not. Pump accessories are supplemental components used to install, control, protect, repair, or maintain pump systems. The pump moves the water. The accessories decide whether it keeps moving it three winters from now or burns out the first time a basement floods.

Here’s the honest truth from behind the counter: while the pump itself moves fluid, accessories ensure proper connection, automation, electrical supply, and system protection. Pick them wrong and you get leaks, short-cycling, or a dead motor at the worst possible moment. They ensure proper connections, prevent leaks, and extend equipment life. That’s the whole game.

They break down into four jobs. Installation parts get the system connected and sealed. Automation parts make it run on its own. Repair parts replace what wears out. Protection parts keep backflow and debris from killing the pump early. Pump accessories are commonly used with sump and sewage pumps, well and booster pumps, industrial transfer and process pumps, and HVAC and condensate systems.

The selection logic is straightforward. Match the pump type and application — accessories must match the pump’s design, fluid type, and operating conditions. Ensure hoses, fittings, and valves are rated for system pressure and flow. Power cords and controls must match voltage, amperage, and phase. Consider exposure to water, chemicals, heat, or outdoor conditions. And use unions, quick-connect fittings, and serviceable components to simplify future repairs.

Float Switches and Pump Controls

This is the single most application-specific decision you’ll make. Get the switch wrong and the pump either runs dry or never shuts off.

First, know what you’ve got. Pumps are generally classified as either automatic or non-automatic. An automatic pump has a built-in float switch that turns on the pump automatically at a fixed water level, then shuts off once the water drops. A non-automatic pump has no integral switch — it runs when plugged in and stops when unplugged. Most sump, sewage, and effluent pump applications will require a float switch to ensure the pump activates when water levels reach a certain height, protecting your home from water damage or sewage backup.

There are three mechanical types worth knowing. Tethered or variable level, vertical or snap-action, and diaphragm pressure activated float switches. The choice comes down to pit size.

Switch Type	Best Fit	Trade-off
Tethered / variable level	Larger diameter, deeper sump pits	Longer off-cycles let the pump cool completely, which can reduce power use and lengthen pump life
Vertical / snap-action	Narrow or shallow sump pits	Pump may run more often, but water levels stay consistently lower
Diaphragm pressure-activated	Narrow or shallow pits	Locked in place; same higher-cycle behavior
Electronic controller	Narrow, limited-space sumps	No mechanical parts to wear out

The variable level switch earns its keep on flexibility. Attach it to a non-automatic pump and the pump behaves like an automatic one — except the VLFS lets you specify the water level, generally between 6 inches and 36 inches, that turns the pump on and off. Many include a piggyback type plug that makes it easy to just plug the pump into the switch, and the switch then operates the pump automatically.

Electronic switches buy you a safety net. If the pump malfunctions or something goes wrong, electronic controllers will turn the pump off and sound an alarm to alert you to the problem.

Whatever you pick, the electrical match is non-negotiable. The switch must accommodate the voltage and amperage of the pump it operates. Most float switches and electronic switches run at either 110-120V or 220-240V, and between 10-15 amps. Make sure your pump’s voltage and amperage fall within the switch’s stated range.

For well and booster systems, the control is different. Pressure switches activate pumps based on system pressure and are commonly used in well pump systems and booster pump systems. They help maintain consistent water pressure and protect pumps from cycling issues. A 40-60 PSI pressure switch is a standard configuration for that kind of work.

Check Valves, Fittings, and Wiring

People ask all the time whether they really need a check valve. The answer is yes, and usually the code agrees.

A check valve is a one-way valve installed on the pump discharge pipe. As the pump runs, water goes through the valve and into the discharge pipe. Because it’s one-way, it won’t allow excess water in the discharge pipe to fall back into the pump when the pump turns off. This extends pump life, since the pump doesn’t have to re-pump water it already moved — especially by keeping it from cycling on and off continually without time to rest and cool.

And it’s frequently not optional. Most municipalities require check valves for all sump, sewage, and effluent pumps. Get the combination type if you ever want to service the pump without a fight — combination ball and check valves are a good idea so you can isolate the sump pump should you need to replace it or examine the sump pit.

If you’re running a water-powered backup, the rules get stricter. When contamination of potable water is possible, strict health codes require a double check valve or reduced pressure backflow device on your main water supply, which operate like a check valve but with added protection to keep sump water from backing into your drinking water. Check with your local plumbing authorities regarding permits and backflow laws in your area before installing or replacing any pump.

For rural Montana wells, corrosion is the long game. 304 stainless steel check valves are rated for submersible well applications for added durability and corrosion resistance. Same logic on the well head — a cast aluminum sanitary well cap protects your well from contamination and freeze-related damage, designed for tight sealing and flexibility. That matters where well heads sit through hard freezes.

Fittings and sealing. Match pipe size and material or you’ll chase leaks all season. Outlet fittings — elbows, tees, and adapters — connect the pump discharge to the pipe or hose, establishing a secure, reliable connection. Materials run from plastic to cast iron, brass, and others, chosen by application, the fluid being pumped, and the required durability and corrosion resistance. On the sealing side, Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant plus gaskets and O-rings prevent leaks, air infiltration, and pressure loss. One detail trips people up: most teflon tapes won’t seal stainless steel fittings — so if you’re threading stainless, buy tape rated for it.

Wiring. Submersible well jobs need the right cable and a watertight splice. Submersible copper pump cable comes in gauges like 10, 8, and 6, and rewiring a submersible well pump calls for a heat-shrink waterproof splice kit to make clean, watertight electrical splices. And skip the extension cord. Using an extension cord with any pump is strongly discouraged — there’s too much that could go wrong and cause serious injury, not to mention diminishing your pump’s performance. Choose a pump with a cord long enough to reach your application without too much or too little slack.

Maintenance and Wear Parts

Nothing here lasts forever, and the cheapest repair is the one you make before the failure. Wear parts include impellers, shafts, bearings, and bushings — replacing them restores efficiency and prevents larger failures. Repair kits often include diaphragms, valves, seal components, and bearings or rollers.

Seals are where leaks start. Mechanical seals, packing seals, and O-rings prevent leaks around the pump shaft and casing. And on well or irrigation systems pulling from gritty water, protect the intake — filters and strainers protect pumps from debris, sand, and solids that cause premature wear.

A simple routine keeps the whole system honest: inspect hoses and fittings for leaks or cracks, test float switches and alarms regularly, replace seals and gaskets at early signs of wear, and keep electrical connections clean and dry. Routine inspection helps prevent costly downtime and emergency repairs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need a check valve on my sump pump? In most places, yes. Most municipalities require check valves for all sump, sewage, and effluent pumps. Beyond code, it stops pumped water from draining back down. A check valve won’t allow excess water in the discharge pipe to fall back into the pump when the pump turns off, which extends pump life since the pump doesn’t have to re-pump water it already moved.

What’s the difference between a tethered and a vertical float switch? Pit size, mostly. Tethered switches take up more space and suit larger, deeper sump pits, and because they aren’t locked in place, they let the pump stay off longer between cycles. Vertical switches are locked into place, making them useful for a narrow or shallow pit, though the pump may run more often while keeping water levels consistently lower.

Can I run my pump on an extension cord? No. Using an extension cord with any pump is strongly discouraged — there’s simply too much that could go wrong and cause serious or fatal injury, not to mention diminishing your pump’s performance. Choose a pump with a cord long enough to reach your application without either too much or too little slack.

How do I know if a float switch will work with my pump? Check the electrical ratings against your pump. The switch must accommodate your pump’s voltage and amperage. Most float switches and electronic switches operate at either 110-120V or 220-240V, and between 10-15 amps — make sure your pump’s voltage and electrical draw fall within the switch’s stated range.

What controls a well or booster pump if it’s not a float switch? A pressure switch. Pressure switches activate pumps based on system pressure and are commonly used in well pump systems and booster pump systems, helping maintain consistent water pressure and protect pumps from cycling issues.

Why does my well pump need stainless fittings? Corrosion resistance over a long service life underwater. 304 stainless steel check valves are rated for submersible well applications for added durability and corrosion resistance. Just remember most teflon tapes won’t seal stainless steel fittings — use tape made for it.