Plumbing Tools

The smartest question before buying a single plumbing tool isn’t “which brand?” It’s “what am I working with?” Tool selection is determined by pipe material — copper, PEX, PVC, steel — along with task complexity and how tight the workspace is. Copper wants a torch or a press tool. PEX wants a crimp ring or an expansion tool. Threaded steel wants a die set. Get the material wrong and the tool either won’t work or won’t pass inspection.

That’s the whole game. A plumbing tool kit isn’t one universal set — it’s assembled by job type and the pipe in your walls. Pros favor durability and speed, while a DIYer building a kit should match tools to the specific pipe material and their own skill level.

The Five Tool Classes

Everything in this category sorts into five buckets. Understanding them keeps you from buying a random pile of parts.

The category divides into five functional classes: cutting and preparation tools (pipe cutters, hacksaws, reciprocating saws, deburring tools, pipe reamers); joining and connection tools (soldering torches, press-fit tools, pipe wrenches, compression fitting tools); measurement and testing instruments (pressure gauges, manometers, flow meters, leak detectors); drain and sewer tools (hand and electric drain snakes, hydro-jetting machines, video inspection cameras); and support and fixture tools (pipe vises, tubing benders, hole saws, pipe-threading machines).

Build by class, not by impulse. A copper repipe pulls from cutting, joining, and testing. A clog call pulls from drain and sewer. Knowing which bucket a job lives in tells you what to grab.

Matching the tool to the pipe

This is the decision that matters most. The joining method determines the required tool set.

For copper soldering, you need a propane or MAPP-gas torch, flux, and lead-free solder compliant with NSF/ANSI 61, the standard governing drinking water system components. For PEX, the type dictates the tool: an expansion tool or crimp ring tool — PEX-A uses expansion rings, PEX-B/C uses copper or stainless crimp rings. Western Building Center carries a SharkBite PEX clamp tool that handles 3/8-inch through 1-inch connections.

Press-fit changes the math for anyone who can’t run an open flame. A press-fit system uses a battery-powered press tool with interchangeable jaws sized to the pipe diameter, with standard jaw sizes ranging from ½ inch to 4 inches. Threaded steel is its own animal — a pipe-threading machine or manual ratchet die set, with cutting oil required to preserve die life and thread quality. And for CPVC, you’re cementing with primer and cement rated to ASTM F493.

The cutting side splits the same way. Copper tubing is most commonly cut with a rotary pipe cutter, which scores and shears the tube without producing metal shavings that could contaminate a potable water system. Steel and cast iron typically require a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade or an angle grinder with a cutting wheel.

There’s a real trade-off worth weighing. Press-fit copper joining requires no open flame, making it suitable for environments where hot-work permits are difficult to obtain, while soldering requires a heat source and typically triggers hot-work permit requirements.

Wrenches — Why One Won’t Cut It

Wrenches are the most-used and most-confused tools on the truck. There’s no single all-purpose wrench, so well-prepared plumbers usually bring several to a job site.

The pipe wrench is the heavy hitter. It grips and turns threaded pipes and fittings using a self-tightening jaw that bites harder as you apply more torque, with serrated jaws that dig into rounded surfaces for maximum leverage on steel and iron pipe. Buy them in pairs and in sizes. A 14-inch wrench handles general work and an 18-inch handles heavier pipe runs. Most plumbers carry two — one to hold the pipe still and one to turn the fitting.

The adjustable wrench earns its spot for a different reason — finish. Unlike a pipe wrench, it uses smooth jaws that grip nuts and bolts without damaging the finish on supply lines, fixture hardware, and compression fittings. Smooth jaws protect chrome and polished fixture hardware from scratching during final installation. A 10-inch or 12-inch jaw capacity covers the most common plumbing fastener sizes.

Then there’s the one tool that feels too specific until you need it. A basin wrench has a long shaft with a pivoting jaw at the end that grips and turns nuts in extremely tight, confined spaces — the jaw swivels 180 degrees so it tightens or loosens depending on direction, making it the only practical option for reaching deep back under sink basins where no other hand tool fits. Try reaching faucet mounting nuts with regular pliers and a simple faucet swap turns into a 45-minute ordeal.

For pipe you don’t want to mar, reach for a strap or chain wrench. Strap wrenches grip and turn polished or plastic pipes without scratching them — the strap wraps around the pipe, providing grip without damaging the surface, ideal for chrome, PVC, and other delicate materials. For very large diameter pipes or awkwardly shaped fittings where standard pipe wrenches won’t fit, a chain wrench wraps around the pipe providing immense gripping power.

Wrench	Best for	Jaw type
Pipe wrench (14”, 18”)	Threaded steel and iron pipe	Serrated
Adjustable wrench (10”, 12”)	Fixture hardware, supply lines, compression fittings	Smooth
Basin wrench	Faucet mounting nuts behind sinks	Pivoting head
Strap / chain wrench	Plastic, chrome, large or finished pipe	Strap or chain

Clean Cuts Make Leak-Free Joints

Most leaks trace back to a bad cut. Get this step right and connections hold.

Tubing cutters make clean, square cuts on copper, brass, aluminum, and thin-wall plastic — the tool clamps onto the pipe and a cutting wheel is tightened and rotated around it. For plastic, ratcheting style eases the work. PVC, CPVC, PEX, and PE cutters use a ratcheting or scissor action that provides leverage for clean cuts without deforming the pipe. Western Building Center carries a Do It ratcheting cutter that handles plastic tubing up to 1-5/8 inch.

Then comes the step nobody should skip. After cutting, a reamer or deburring tool removes the internal burr — a step mandated by most code-adopting jurisdictions because internal burrs reduce flow area and can trap debris.

Seal the threaded connections properly. Thread sealing tape patches or prevents leaks at threaded joint connections; quality tape resists high and low temperatures, stretches for form-fitting coverage, and never dries out.

And don’t close the walls until you’ve tested. Pressure testing requires a calibrated gauge capable of holding the test pressure specified by the adopted code — typically 100 psi for domestic water systems. Permit requirements typically mandate a rough-in inspection before walls are closed.

Drain Clearing and Diagnostics

A big share of plumbing work is clogs and inspection. The right tool depends on line size and what’s blocking it.

Start simple. Plungers are one of the most simple but effective tools for clearing clogged drains, and the variety of sizes makes it easy to find the right one — the plunger you choose depends on the type of drain. When suction won’t do it, go mechanical. A plumber’s snake, also known as a drain auger, is a long flexible metal cable with a corkscrew head used to clear clogs in drains and pipes. Western Building Center carries a ProSource drain auger for that work.

For bigger lines, the power steps up. Electric drum machines use a rotating cable to break through or retrieve obstructions in lines from 1.25 inches to 4 inches in diameter. When it’s grease, scale, or roots, hydro-jetting units pressurize water to between 1,500 psi and 4,000 psi, though operator training matters to minimize pipe damage during high-pressure jetting, particularly in older cast iron or clay pipe.

Diagnose before you dig. Video inspection cameras deploy a waterproof lens on a flexible cable, with cable lengths commonly ranging from 100 feet to 330 feet for residential and light-commercial laterals.

The Montana Winterizing Tool

One tool earns its keep before every freeze. The faucet key is a small, X-shaped tool designed to open and close spigots and sillcocks. Also known as a sillcock or hose bib key, it fits valves on outdoor spigots to control water flow — the end has a square or pentagon shape that fits into the valve. Its best use is turning water off from outside a structure, specifically for winterization or a construction project where water must be temporarily turned off. In a climate where exterior lines freeze and burst, that’s not an accessory — it’s a fall ritual.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the first thing to figure out before buying plumbing tools? The pipe material. Selection is determined by pipe material — copper, PEX, PVC, steel — along with task complexity and workspace accessibility. Copper, PEX, CPVC, steel, and cast iron each take different joining methods, and the material decides the permissible tool set under the adopted code.

Do I really need to deburr after every cut? Yes, and it’s not optional in most places. Removing the internal burr after cutting is mandated by most code-adopting jurisdictions because internal burrs reduce flow area and can trap debris.

What’s the difference between PEX crimp and PEX expansion tools? The PEX type. PEX-A uses an expansion tool with expansion rings; PEX-B and PEX-C use a crimp ring tool with copper or stainless crimp rings. Buy the tool that matches your tubing.

Why would I choose press-fit over soldering copper? No flame. Press-fit copper joining requires no open flame, making it suitable for environments where hot-work permits are difficult to obtain, while soldering requires a heat source and typically triggers hot-work permit requirements. Press tools also run faster on repetitive joints.

Why do plumbers carry two pipe wrenches? Leverage and control. Most plumbers carry two — one to hold the pipe still and one to turn the fitting. A 14-inch handles general work and an 18-inch handles heavier runs.

What seals a threaded connection — tape or dope? Either, and both work. Thread sealing tape patches or prevents leaks at threaded joint connections, resists high and low temperatures, stretches for form-fitting coverage, and never dries out.

What’s the right tool to shut off an outdoor spigot before a freeze? A faucet key. Also known as a sillcock or hose bib key, it fits valves on outdoor spigots to control the water valve. It’s the standard tool for winterizing exterior lines.