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Continuous Hinges

How to Pick the Right Material, Size, and Finish

Building Materials  ·  Updated 2026

Building Materials

A continuous hinge — most folks call it a piano hinge — runs the full length of whatever it’s joining instead of relying on two or three knuckles to carry the load. That’s the whole point. It provides support to run the full length of doors, panels, or pieces being joined together. Spread the support across the entire joint and you stop the sag and stress pile-up that kills standard three-knuckle hinges in heavy-use spots.

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Where do they earn their keep? Tool chests, cabinets, folding tables, and hobby projects. Cabinet lids, folding partitions, metal storage cabinets too. Anywhere a door or panel sees real cycles and you don’t want one weak point doing all the work.

The buying decision comes down to three things. Material drives where the hinge belongs. Width carries the load. Length matches the joint. Get those right and the rest is just screws.

Material and Finish — Match It to the Job

This is the choice that matters most. Pick wrong and you’ll be replacing a rusted-out hinge in a couple of seasons.

Stainless steel is the one for anything that sees moisture, an unheated outbuilding, or freeze-thaw cycling. National Hardware’s stainless line is manufactured from stainless steel with a stainless steel pin for corrosion resistance, and the WeatherGuard protection is proven to be 3x more resistant to corrosion versus competitors. Here’s the detail that matters for outdoor gate and storage work: it’s formulated to withstand the harshest weather conditions and stand up to the corrosive effects of pressure treated lumber. If you’re hanging a gate on treated posts or building a storage box that lives outside, that’s the line.

Cold-rolled steel is the indoor workhorse. The V570 continuous hinge is manufactured from cold-rolled steel, with a steel pin. It comes in brass or nickel finish. Good for cabinet lids, folding tables, interior partitions — anywhere it stays dry and heated. Don’t put it where water gets at it.

Plain heavy-gauge steel exists for the weld-it-in-place crowd. Heavy gauge steel is stronger than aluminum, rust resistant, and weldable, with punched screw holes for convenience when mounting. Note that the bulk no-screw plain-steel versions have been discontinued, so don’t build a plan around them.

MaterialFinishBest for
Stainless steel (WeatherGuard)Bare stainlessOutdoor, moisture, unheated buildings, treated lumber
Cold-rolled steelBrass or nickelIndoor cabinets, tool chests, folding tables
Heavy-gauge plain steelPlainWeldable utility applications

Sizing, Gauge, and Installation

Width carries the weight; length spans the joint. The size code on every hinge tells you both — a “2 inch x 72 inch” is a 2-inch open leaf running 6 feet.

Open-leaf widths run 1-1/16 inch, 1-1/2 inch, and 2 inch on the common lines, with 2-1/2 inch on the heavy plain-steel type. Lengths come in 12, 30, 48, and 72 inch. Rule of thumb: narrower leaf for lighter doors, wider leaf as the door gets heavy. Don’t run a hinge right at its limit — size the capacity above the actual door weight so you’ve got margin.

The steel V570 line has the published specs worth knowing. Screw holes are spaced 2 inches apart, the electrofilm-coated pin is .090 diameter and resists rust, and the gauge is .042. Western Building Center carries National Hardware piano hinges in nickel and brass finishes, in the 1-1/16, 1-1/2 inch widths and 30 and 48 inch lengths.

Installation is straightforward, which is why these are friendly to anybody comfortable with a drill. The friction-type pin will not fall out, it’s surface mount for easy installation, and it can be cut to desired length. That cut-to-length bit is the beauty of a piano hinge — trim it to fit any joint and the friction pin still holds. The steel V570 hinges ship with a screw — packed with a Phillips flat No. 4 x 1/2-inch screw.

One warning that comes straight from the maker: don’t paint them. Paint gums up the knuckle action and shortens the life of the hinge. If you want a finish, buy the finish you want — brass or nickel — and leave it alone.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between a piano hinge and a continuous hinge? Nothing — they’re two names for the same part. Both run the full length of the joint instead of using a few separate knuckles, which is what gives them their load-spreading advantage.

Can you cut a continuous hinge to length? Yes. It can be cut to any desired length as the friction pin will not fall out. That’s a core reason builders reach for them — buy a 72-inch hinge and trim it to whatever the joint needs.

Which continuous hinge holds up outdoors in a wet or freezing climate? The stainless steel line. It’s manufactured from stainless steel with a stainless steel pin for corrosion resistance, with WeatherGuard protection proven 3x more resistant to corrosion versus competitors, formulated to withstand the harshest weather conditions and the corrosive effects of pressure treated lumber. The brass and nickel cold-rolled steel hinges are specified for indoor use.

Do continuous hinges come with screws? Depends on the version. The steel V570 hinges are packed with a Phillips flat No. 4 x 1/2-inch screw. The bulk “no screws” versions, as the name says, don’t include them — they have punched screw holes for convenience when mounting, but screws are not included.

Should you paint a continuous hinge? No. Paint works its way into the knuckles and pin and ruins the smooth swing. Choose the finish you want at purchase and skip the brush.

How do I size a continuous hinge to my door? Match the length to the height of the joint and the leaf width to the weight of the door — narrow leaves for light doors, wider leaves as the door gets heavier. Leave yourself margin rather than running the hinge at its limit.

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